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When assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning establishments. But, tucked prominently among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The honour has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” says a owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their modest shop securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.