Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these tales and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
